Sunday, November 7, 2010

Colorful Spirit

 Foreword Prime Colorful costumes Tang Empire Tang accommodating three hundred years, the Chinese feudal society, the most developed of the times. In particular, one hundred years in the Tang Dynasty, after the a high degree of stage of development, political stability, economic prosperity, cultural open, active thinking, the Chinese feudal culture reached its peak. Then the great Tang Empire, flourishing, is the world's most powerful country, and its all-inclusive foreign culture to absorb all external things have a grand vision and a solid national strength. stable political situation for the dress reform and development of favorable conditions, foreign to the Dress Clothes and inclusive approach is also taken, one is absorbed by the Tang culture, they naturally become the Tang culture supplement and nourish, as generous Costume Culture, Best was the reason the U.S. went so far as to make the costumes shine in this period, more full of the times. Tang dress as a special artistic language, it shows that clothing compete with a defined protocol, grade movements, human relations and worldly, an important symbol of savage other features. In this, together we will enter the time tunnel, opened a corner of this ancient civilization, common Origin, peep Tang culture evident. < br> Tang Dynasty unified the whole country, the national peak, open-minded people, to promote competition, the pursuit of innovative, unconventional, and thus have a greater reform of the crown worn clothing, clothing outside the domain of integration then the characteristics, with distinctive characteristics of the Tang Dynasty clothing. Tang clothing pay attention to fashionable, flexible and practical to reduce the prohibitions, which Tang towels, robe shirt, Ku fold, leather belt and boots, shared by the various sectors, the traditional clothing is unique.
Hu Fu due to the impact of the Tang costumes spectacular, the kind of cross-collar Qin and Han Dynasties, undress jacket, wide and long and deep drag clothes to dress style has been phased out, while only taking ceremony in the ritual. As to the worship time, service type into plate collar, tight, tight sleeves, the gown shirt medium width, cumbersome crowns was simple towel mm Fu Tang replaced head. Women Zeyi shirt, short jacket, tight sleeves and the thin bare-tight dress, Hu Fu is stylish, rich and gaudy decorations reflect the shape of women's fitness and body clothing, as typical of the Tang costumes. TANG history of women's clothing is the most exciting chapter in its lush canopy of gorgeous clothes, ornaments of singular numerous, confusing. is not only beyond the previous generation, and future generations can reach in case no.
one man clothing:
Tang period, the men dress with a significant difference between Southern and Northern Dynasties. If, gown sleeve shirt is no longer as wide as the Wei, Jin, fertilizer, such as the former did not folding the collar, and most wear a round neck, turn-up collar, narrow sleeves of the robe shirt. Tang lack of hips more robes, wearing a crown,cheap UGG boots, cap, towel, Fu head, feet with soft boots, shoe, Wu Pi Lu. in the late Tang to the Five Dynasties period, because the service system of chaos, Hu Fu passed, gradually the secular system of undress big sleeves, skirt silk shoes are replaced.
(a) of the gowns shirt. (uniforms) < br> robe shirt: the evolution from a long dark clothing clothing, men's shirt gown slight difference with the previous dynasties, mainly in color to distinguish between levels. pattern for the round neck, right-ren, narrow sleeves, hem at no leader Perimeter, and Length to the knee or foot. robes Hu Fu affected mainly by the shirt, and with the Han Chinese custom, etiquette features combine to form a T-shirt style gown during this period. first in the elite government officials, popular Shu Shi, Tang After few days.
1, round neck shirt gowns: gowns shirt also known as group leader. It was in the North by the impact of changes in various parts of the whole little bit longer to ankles or civilian clothes and, the military attache little clothing short to knee, and sleeves with width of the points, with fashion and also add variation Lan, dart persons, some of the models until the Song and Ming.
2, Lan gowns, Lan shirt: that is, in robes above the , pale green, dishes, Lan decorated or decorated with five-dyed pattern. Lan gowns are in, or floc, Lan shirt for the single.
3, lack of cross-robe, shirt: the so-called short span both sides of the hip bone in the robe shirt is placed every place the following slits, as this gown easy action, therefore, be as scholars, and ordinary clothing, or one of slavery and other workers, but also so easy to march style, riding and shooting, has become one of the Rong Fu.
4, Ming gowns (embroidered gowns): that is, right-ren, round neck, big sleeves, patterns of animals and birds before, back with inscriptions, according to grade, government (civil and military) are in fashion, patterns and other differences. is the prototype of later missed dose.
(b) Hu Fu :
wear Hu Fu, far began in the Warring States period, the Han to the Northern Dynasties, Hu Fu to as court dress, dressed in uniforms of the system, the Sui and Tang dynasties, to forget the formula for Hu Fu of the Tang Dynasty. Hu Fu, Western minorities, including clothing and Indian, Persian and other foreign apparel. It has a knee-length coat, thin and narrow sleeves features a leather waist belt, wearing a hat or a fur hat, booted feet. collar To round neck, folding collar, open collars,UGG boots clearance, buttons down the front, a small vertical bars under the pants. not only the warriors, served wear, courtiers Hu Fu is also fashionable to wear.
(c) dress:
feudal empire The dress, dressed as a Chinese representative, at this time was completely perfect.
1, robes:
Tang Li Xian Prince Zhang Huai's tomb, dressed Huagui Li clothing. Officials gentle grace. They wore the red shirt Kuanpao big sleeves, collar, cuffs are black side edge, wearing white gauze in the single, brown dress to wear under skirts, decorated with fine pleated hem noted in Canada, gird big band, the Department of Knee shield, drag a color ribbon waist, wearing a crown Wu Bian cage, foot board Wat first assumed.
2, Mianfu:
Gun crown is the most widely used dress the emperor, various sacrifices and rituals in various major court wearing crown with a Gun, is also the most in the history of the screen to see it. Gun is equipped with a gold crown of the crown. coronal version of the former low-high, before and after the 12 white beads hanging strung with tassel. coronal sides of hanging jade deaf ear to remind the emperor does not listen to calumny. coronal inserted in the Hosta. T-shirt in black, embroidered in eight tattoo, that is: sun, moon, stars, dragons, mountains, China insects, fire, and were Yi. lower part is red, embroidered algae, rice flour, embroidery, embroidery. Wearing white gauze in a single, waist and knees, Department of shelter, and gird big belt, leather belt, sash, sword and groups with Pei.
Second, women dress:
Tang and Five Dynasties period to the basic dress of women to jacket shirt, skirt with, supplemented Banbi, wrap with silk and decorated as the main feature. This Set After Tang increasingly large sleeves, collar with various forms of clothing, such as: round neck, square collar, ramp collar, straight collar and Jixin Ling and so on. particularly in the later Tang Dynasty, has become popular over a bare collar (which do not wear underwear, bare breasts). in the Early and High Tang, the still popular Hu Fu, women with men.
first service: a Mu Lei, curtain caps, hats, and other systems Hu. Mo Lei is a large square, Phi body when worn down, to obscure the body. The early Western attire, making travel to the Tang Dynasty, the first and only service to prevent the face along the way by passers-by a glimpse of the palace women wearing riding trips are very common. Tang Yong Hui years, the emergence of a kinds of high top width of eaves Hu Fu prevalent, women were the Hu Fu, Hu cap, a muddy hat,UGG shoes, take the ear caps, roll brim hat and other shapes.
hair accessories: hair as a decorative component of culture, whether from the hair in the form of the types or degree of fine decoration, or from the later cultural influences on women's clothing, are unprecedented. Early women's hair accessories is relatively simple to Taizong when the hair gradually, increasingly rich style, hair items also increased, but the appearance point of view, the buns can be divided into two-and vertical bun-style (and a few flat bun-style), and inserted in the bun on a variety of decorations. Tianbao years later,UGGs, and the rise of Jia Ji (meaning bun).
decoration is also very particular about the face. face deposited with lead powder, wipe the rouge, the amount smoked crow painted on eyebrows variety of painting, also decorated with gold and silver in between the eyebrows, Yu Chui made colorful Hanako (flower-tin), and both sides of the cheeks with Dan, red or Tsukigata point out various shapes, or lines like, the name (makeup dimple). lips with rouge according to the different shapes Dianran, name variety.
footwear styles are: line shoes, high head Gelv, Young Jin Lu, Jin Lv boots, clogs and boots, etc. Alice head.
(a), jacket shirt, skirt, Banbi, wrap silk, bare Large-sleeved chest.
1, Ru shirt: long tunic and jacket short sleeves a width of the points, the skirt has buttons down the front, Xie Jin of the points. wear a shirt jacket, mostly within the hem on the skirt, but also directly down for various needs outside the skirt. aristocratic women jacket sleeve shirt and more dominated by traditional large sleeves: ordinary women, especially when the maid and the labor of women, activities and crafts for convenience, is more with narrow sleeves. Tang on behalf of women's jacket features shirt collar diverse one, common are: square collar, round neck, straight collar, collars, oblique. Tang Dynasty, the palace gradually in the low collar televised bosom popular clothing from fashion, the in the form of wearing a party shirt collar or round neck jacket, under a long skirt, large open collar, and some outside the Banbi, Phi silk. At first, few bare breasts, bare breast to the wind after the Shing Tang, not only the palace so, people have also followed suit, tailor topless for the United States. reflects the social atmosphere of the opening of Tang Dynasty, active cultural ideology, showed a certain extent, the U.S. pursuit of women in the Tang Dynasty. Sui Dynasty to the Early Women Most of the wear narrow-sleeved jacket, under a long skirt, waist belt, Jian Pi Scarf, enough with the high-head shoes. and has buttons down the front, right-ren delivery lead two. long tight sleeves to the wrist, clothing and body short narrow only to the waist. to as much red or purple, or yellow, white, blue, green, Fei and other colors. This court and the aristocracy began to dress in women's fashion, regardless of official Shu before, the race to follow, to become a kinds of fashionable costumes. especially in the mid-Tang and more prevalent.
2, dress: dress, women wear clothing of the Tang Dynasty one of the main lower part. women's dress, who gird you with those, skirt waist bits are up, most of the high and Xiong Ru, skirt length and the land, respected thin-style dress. popularity Fei, purple, yellow, white, green, blue and other colors. material, color, style and decoration are much higher than the previous generation.
(1), tuck skirt: two or more by the color of the dress material, mutual interval of stitching sewn a dress, to increase more than for fashion. a red, green, red, yellow, white and yellow such as different colors. early when Jin became popular. Sui and Tang dynasties, regardless of hierarchy, social status like to wear, in the Tang Dynasty have diminished.
(2), flower cage dress: Women in the Tang Dynasty aristocrats popular skirt, is a light, thin, translucent The upper skirt is more valuable.
(3), birds dress: a variety of bird feathers woven skirt twisting, so called , three-dimensional sense of strong, able to off her feet (a monochromatic red dress), Valerian skirt (with dyed Valerian process arm: the outside jacket wear short-sleeve shirt body suit short. Initially the service for the ladies, then spread to people, become a trend. is the jacket an important component of skirt. Its shape has straight collar, ramp leading to wear when the chest strap fastened, appeared to be very decent. a small number of shirt jacket with tight sleeves, but also can wear. in the Tang Dynasty, due to increasing women's clothes mast, wear Banbi really at odds, so its use gradually reduced to the Five Dynasties period has been relatively rare.
5, Phi silk: or as or some embroidered designs, patterns. Phi available, will be in the shoulder silk towel Phi Rao, the remnants of small varies around sagging. Phi silk size of different lengths. also free to spare in the arm, the shirt jacket with narrow sleeves or half arm, skirt with, looked the more charming and generous, so favored by the Tang women.
3, topless big-sleeved shirt: aristocratic women beautiful dress to the extreme level of luxury. They rushed the body with white powder, so that the skin is crystal jade, his head giving her a high bun, wearing a gold bar arm off, wearing a shirt buttons down the front, wide sleeves, fertilizer, and ground down. a brocade dress, Qunyao more than up to the chest, with Jin belt in the chest, wide skirt noted in the drag on the ground, all the cover from the body. torso which does not wear underwear, only with a thin transparent Shayi, neck, upper chest, arm most of the bare out. Jianpi colored silk embroidery of the cape. look great fit, seamless. is a noble woman walking in the courtyard, flowers, catching butterflies, play Oscillation dog clothes she wore.
(b) Hu Fu, Women with Men.
open-minded women in the Tang Dynasty, Shu, regardless of official, high or low, masculine men advocating diversification of mentality and personality revealed on the clothes.
1, Hu Fu: as a robe. in the collar, sleeves, hem at the edge of a Kam decorated with buttons down the front, folded collar, round neck, narrow sleeves lack of hip gown, wearing a hat Hu Jinhua high roof, and gird leather belt and a variety of small ornaments (Xiexie band), vertical bar beneath the mouth of the Persian tight small pants, wearing pointed embroidered shoes (soft-Jin Lu) or Wupi boots. This is typical of women Hu Fu style. prevalent in Kaiyuan, Tianbao.
(1), lapel clothing with tight sleeves: It has long clothing knee-length, thin and narrow sleeve features a leather waist belt, decorated with a variety of small ornaments, wearing high-top hat or a fur hat, the leader of a Kam-edge decoration at the hem, pants beneath a small vertical bar, wearing embroidered shoes or semi-unitary pointed soft boots. This is typical of women Hu Fu style.
(2), Uighur loaded: wearing a robe with tight sleeves folded collar, cuffs and collar are embroidered with gold, wearing encrusted jewelry and hairpins Chai Po Peach Jinfeng Guan, enough with the soft line of boots. this section and the upper nobility popular in Tang court women.
2, women with men: wearing a soft corner Fu head, wearing a round narrow-sleeved shirt collar or folded collar, waist Xiexie boots with foot the Wupi. Women with Men's style first popular in the palace, gradually affecting the people, become a common women's clothing. a time when women had to wear men's head wrapped Fu, but also head hair and pull Geshi gowns worn alone, round neck shirt.
Chang'an was the capital of the world's largest, is also the cultural center of things, highly developed traditional culture and the frequent combination of Chinese and foreign culture, economic and trade exchanges, Tang civilization to the world's most advanced civilization. Datang clothing that fully reflects this era to maintain a traditional, but also inclusive and get rid of all the constraints, limitations, pay attention to novelty, aptamer, flexible, lightweight, practical, aesthetic, myriad forms , become the most colorful costumes.
Conclusion Chang'an the capital of the world's largest, is also the cultural center of things, highly developed traditional culture and the frequent combination of Chinese and foreign culture, economic and trade exchanges, the Tang civilization the world's most advanced civilization. Datang clothing that fully reflects this era to maintain a traditional, but also inclusive and get rid of all the constraints, limitations, pay attention to novelty, aptamer, flexible, lightweight, practical, aesthetic, myriad forms, be the first ever The most colorful costumes. 

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